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When curating a list of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning establishments. However, nestled prominently among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble place earning such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.